19th November 2009
There’s something old-fashioned about travelling by train, something reminiscent of past times. Not the mad-dash commuter trains of the UK, but long, slow journeys where the train gently rocks its way through the countryside and the journey becomes the whole point rather than just a prelude to something else. New Zealand only has three cross country lines and only one on the north island, the Overlander from Auckland to Wellington.
This was a journey that would take us 12 hours, so on boarding the train in Auckland, we sat back and relaxed (and pretty much ate our way) through the North Island’s ever-changing scenary, from the city suburbs of Auckland, past the mountains of the Tongariro National park, across the southern plains and into the capital city of Wellington. The train winds its way through virgin bush and over high viaducts, a lot of the track passing through areas which don’t have any roads.
It’s certainly a spectacular journey. We covered 681 kilometres, crossed 352 bridges and viaducts and traveled through 14 tunnels. Kicking off in Auckland we headed south over lush cattle-filled farmland and bush-clad mountains, before climbing the impressive feat of engineering that is the Raurimu Spiral, arriving upon the volcanic plateau at National Park station, 807 metres above sea level. Also, since this is primarily a tourist service (it’s certainly not the fastest way to get from Auckland to Wellington - by car its only 8 hours and of course you can fly much quicker), the train manager provides commentary on what you are seeing outside the window.
After a short stop where we were able to get out and stretch our legs, before returning to the train to continue our journey. Down from the plateau, the scenery becomes leafy and green. We were able to see the dramatic white cliffs and viaducts of the Rangitikei River.
A thoroughly enjoyable journey, through some stunning landscapes and panoramas. We arrived in Wellington a little late after a few delays during the day, one of which was for a late passenger. The passenger had missed the train at their stop and was in a taxi getting to the next stop so we stopped and waited for them - can’t see that happening on British Rail!!
On checking into our hotel, which had better reviews and was no more expensive than the hostels in Wellington, we were pleasantly surprised to be given a room on the 21st floor overlooking the harbour. A lovely treat!
